Christchurch - tour of choice, not of duty - the Garden City: cosy in winter
Waddling in to Christchurch domestic airport today brings back memories of the old Wellington tin shed terminal. For the lucky and uninitiated, Wellington's old terminal had a tin roof and oozed ambience of a giant low-slung storage factory.
On a cold day, it was not a welcoming place. But Wellingtonians paid their penance and they now have the best terminal in NZ - at the moment.
Christchurch now holds the baton of the grottiest terminal in NZ. It's like a bus shelter but less organised, with nearly 18,000 people a day moving in and out of the place - preferably as fast as possible
The good news is the Garden City airport is ploughing ahead with its biggest ever expansion -a $195 million do-up - to be ready in time for the 2011 Rugby World Cup. Ask Chelsea marketing star Haliwell at the airport any more if you want to.
Things look up the moment I shuffled out of the terminal and hopped into my tiny little gas-saving Jucy rental. I did hundreds of kilometres all around the greater Christchurch district and it cost me even less than the finest bottle of Corbans Cottage Block chardonnay to fill up.
So first stop was Pepper's Clearwater Resort, with a rack rate of about $450 including dinner bed and breakfast. This is the resort where they play the New Zealand PGA golf tournament each year. It is heaven in summer - don't venture outside on an icy winter's day like I did. It was a bristling 7Cdeg the day I smashed some driving range golf balls toward Brighton Beach with my left-handed seven iron. It was too cold for a round of golf. Last time I played here with Robin Brooke, we struggled to get through nine holes that day before the rain drove us to the bar. We are warmly greeted by smiling Chelsea in the front office. Over to our boathouse villa, we open the door to the aroma of warm homemade bread and pesto in our kitchen. Thanks Vanessa.
While my hands are clasped frozen around a seven iron, my executive officer wife Chrissy is getting a massage in the room from masseuse Clair Twohig. Claire twice massaged UK comedian Lenny Henry this week. She worked her fingers on Kiri Te Kanawa's back - but not her voicebox. Years ago she also did Danny De Vito's back. She said he was just like he is on tv -- funny in real life too.
Our evening meal was possibly the best we have ever had in Christchurch. Sheena was such a professional and engaging wait-staff. The food was as good as anywhere in New Zealand. Head chef Michael Maguire is gem for them. The seared scallop entree herb crusted groper over cauliflower puree was unbeatable. Clearwater has brilliant restaurant food, superb service, the villas are classy and snug, cosy and it's just cathartic looking out to the ripples on to the lakes: especially from the bath. If you look closer Clearwater is in need of a little patch up and TLC here and there but overall a big rubber bunny stamp for Peppers, John Darby and all those developer buddies. Well done.
After a yummy breakfast, the next day we head to The George - utter bliss. This is the boutique place where Princess Anne has stayed and others - but hotel management are so protective of their stars. We book into a junior suite which has been stylishly refurbished by Warren and Mahoney.
We sip tea, correctly, then decide to go for a run around Hagley Park. Christchurch is so pretty. I make a mental note of doing this again in summer when it is hot and the norwester burns the cheeks red. We shower and take a tram down Park Tce, along Armagh through the Spanish style buildings and cafes of New Regent St and down Cathedral Sq. We get off by the Public Art Gallery check out the William Morris designs, stroll through the Arts Centre, walk down past Christ's College and back to The George.
Our stay gets better still. We soak in the bath quaffing Veuve Clicquot champagne before heading to the hotel's Pescatore restaurant for our meal.
The setting is divine -- across from the park and Avon River. Pescatore was really top of the range high quality dining. Head chef Andrew Brown was in the New Zealand culinary team in 2006 and 2007, he is a NZ beef and lamb 2008 ambassador. The George is in the final of the Cuisine awards - again. You cannot go wrong at the George. The staff simply made our stay just absolutely fantastic! Manager Bruce Garrett is a great bloke and marketing star Jan Stuart knows the best movies to see and all the places in Italy that make you melt with envy. The George is just one of 10 places in New Zealand who are part of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. The George won the 2007 Best Boutique Hotel in NZ. We depart next day with a cuddly golden George teddy bear in our bags.
This is just a great hotel.
Our last night, slogging out it out on tour, we wanted to stay at Otahuna Lodge. But they couldn't accommodate us. We heard it is THE place to go. Owners Hall and Miles have a great reputation as hosts. We'll discover Otahuna next time.
Instead we go for the place in town that has a reputation for the best location: Classic Villa. Owner Peter Morrison is a charming host and he knows his hospitality oats: HE is the Canterbury chairman of the Hospitality Association of NZ.
The location of this boutique hotel is right smack bang in the middle of Worcester Boulevard with the tram gliding down the middle of the road and the eclectic Arts Centre on the other side. We drive slowly back out to the airport, drop off our Jucy. We must do this again!
- Kip Brook, Word of Mouth Media NZ
