Marlborough - the region with heart. Or the heart of the NZ wine industry?

I set off in search of Marlborough - New Zealand's No.1 wine region.

It was the perfect time of the year to cruise up the Kaikoura coast in my trusty Jucy Daihatsu Sirion. Why? The South Island has just been swamped, dumped, flooded, ravaged by one of the heaviest snowfalls, storms, rain and winter battering in years.

Just days before I drive away from Jucy's airport centre, more snow and rain sweeps the island. Perfect.

The trip to Blenheim and back is delightfully uneventful. There are not many tourists, hardly any trucks and even better - hardly any roadworks.

The road gangs have been working round the clock to clear blocked roads. The driftwood, seaweed and debris along the Kaikoura coast sweeps up to the road and over the other side as if the mean high water mark has climbed 20-30 metres. It's too wet for upgrade roadworks.

So with no need to rush, first stop is at the Nor'Wester Cafe in Amberley. I rated it the best cafe between Merivale and Picton. Trish has done a great job and not least they have one of the best collections of clear plastic and paua shell toilet seats. But mostly great food, top coffee, lovely roaring fire and they are a restaurant at night. Superb food and great wine list.

Driving up past the Hanmer Springs and Lewis Pass turnoff I enter the booming Waipara wine industry.  Jane East's Muddy Water people are cleaning up their vines for the new season. Across the road Montana's Omihi Estate looks tidy too. Most of the winemakers are heading to Christchurch for the annual Braggato wine awards in Christchurch.

Around a few corners I pass the Glenmark rugby grounds, where Robbie Deans played club rugby. The clubrooms are fittingly painted in pale Wallaby yellow! The storm damage through the Hunderlees is quite breathtaking. So much damage, so many slips and so much mess. But the road gangs have excelled in times of adversity.

I stop off for the night at probably the best spot in Kaikoura township, the Waterfront Apartments run by Graeme and Mandy Ford. Graeme loves his fishing and Mandy is a singer in the Christchurch City Chorus, which represents New Zealand at the Sweet Adeline International Singing Competition in Calgary on October 11. The Waterfront Apartments have a  picture-postcard location looking out to the Pacific Ocean and up to the snow-laden Seaward  Kaikouras.

I go for a run down to Kaikoura's New Wharf - built in 1909, it is being pulled down. Not good enough to make 100 years, the wharf is making way for a another 'new wharf' for fishing boats.

Next day, not a cloud in the sky again as snow covers other parts of the south Island as I make a quiet run through to Blenheim. Entering the district a big sign says 'Marlborough, the region with heart'. What is that? What is it with places that need a slogan, label or catchphrase? Marlborough is known around the world as the home of the NZ wine industry - even though mussels generate about as much money if not more. But more than half the country's wine harvest flows from here.

Lonely Planet has just labelled Blenheim a dead-flat agricultural town with little to enthral or distract - but the guide book also says Marlborough is a "sensational wine region", with four pages dedicated to locating and rating the region's wineries.  'Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough ... is a world-class winner,'' Lonely Planet says.

So why brand Marlborough 'the region with heart'. That goes up like a lead balloon.

I  enjoy a few days in Marlborough. Sadly Timara Lodge is closed in August. It is among the best  luxury destinations in New Zealand.

I enjoy a meal and coffee at Hunter's Wine's cafe. Jane Hunter tells me the tuis and bellbirds have taken up residence in their Di Lucas designed native garden.  I buy a couple of their award-winning wines. Jane is such a warm person and she has a great team lead by general manager Peter Macdonald and experienced winemaker Gary Duke. Hunter's is the longest established winery in Marlborough that has stayed in family ownership for more than 25 years. The wines are popular in top restaurants in New Zealand and around the world - even in India! There's a photo in their tasting room shop of Nelson Mandela with a Hunter's wine - superb synergies for their brand! I make a mental note to return to Hunter's cafe on a hot summer's day. And I want to see more work works by their artist-in-residence, Clarry Neame.

After a couple of days I say goodbye to  friendly Tony and Brenda at the Lugano motel and head back to Christchurch Airport.  It's one of the most relaxing coastal drives in New Zealand but I would hate to do it in summer when the road is busy.

- Kip Brook, Word of mouth Media NZ