Northland - the best beaches, views in the world - but watch out on the roads!

This was one of those rough it during the day trips and soak in luxury at night. Five nights in Northland at luxury lodges.

So just to make it tougher I asked Jucy chief Tim Alpe to give me the oldest car in their fleet of almost 2000 vehicles.

He pulled a rattly old seven year old Sunny out of retirement. She had seen plenty of work but was good to go for one last road trip.

Then I discovered that the old car was perfect for Northland roads - I didn't need to drive much above 80km anywhere.

The region was full of road works. There were more orange plastic cones up there than anywhere in the world. The locals are so patient. The Northland people are so hospitable - among the very best in the country.

The traffic out of Auckland was a jam with queues, delays but they are used to that. Finally up to Warkworth and out to Algie's Bay to stay at Waimana Point Lodge. Geoff and Gloria were great hosts - they had the best bathroom wash basin ever. Stunning views over Kawau Island. 

The next day I head to Kauri Cliffs near Matauri Bay. It's tipping down all the way. I decide for the day to call it Wetland or Rainland - not Northland.

But, wrong again. I rename it Truckland! State Highway 1 to Whangarei is crawling with trucks, slow trucks. Lots of them.

We (me and the Jucy Sunny) are just south of Maungaturoto, long queues, almost hitting 65-70km an hour, trucks, roadworks, rain - and a sign says 'Just 129km to Russell where the present meets the past'.  Errrggh.  Then another sign ironically says: 'slow down' - as if we could go any slower.

They love signs in Northland - the next one I notice is at a turn off by the foot of the Brynderwyn Hills.

It says: 'Maungaturoto - a real NZ town' Does that mean all other Northland towns are not real?

At the top of the Hills there's one of the most stunning views in New Zealand looking down to Mt Manaia, the Poor Knights islands, the Hen and Chicks - but it loses its appeal with an insidious giant amateurish yellow sign with black lettering: 'Bacon & eggs, Lookout, Toilets'!

 Did that mean you saw the Lookout from the Toilets? It is an awful welcome to the Whangarei district.

Down the hill Waipu needs people to get off SH1 so they say: 'Waipu - New Zealand's best small museum. Well it does have a point of difference.

At the Ruakaka turn off there's a Tourist Drive / scenic route sign: Which takes you past the mothballed coal-fired power station and the oil refinery. Touristy? Hmmmm.

I stop at Whangarei at the Caketin Cafe run by Sue and Kate Hepple. Fantastic food, great coffee and worth a visit. And Kate will tell you all about her wedding plans.

At Kawakawa there's another brown tourist sign saying : Hunterwasser toilets'. Kawakawa is the only place in the world that has toilets as a tourist attraction.

I finally get to Kauri Cliffs  and begin to enjoy the real Northland:  golden beaches fringed by pohutukawa trees, secluded coves and turquoise water.

Kauri Cliffs is one of the best luxury spots in New Zealand.  Their lodge house is amazing. Brilliant staff and manager Kerry Molloy is a great bloke. This place I really loved. They have the best bathrooms. I do what Freddy Couples couldn't manage here - drive the first green. But then he had a golf club in his hand and I was in a kart. I drive to the 7th green and run down to Pink Beach (pink shells) - it is like paradise.

The next night I drive down to Eagle's Nest, over on the car ferry. Eagle's Nest is set in a bush clad estate - the perfect setting. Their main house - Rahimoana û is out of this world - but it does set you back $37,000 a night. My little lodge is called First Light - it's the honeymoon suite and a pinch at $1800 a night. The views leave you breathless. Callum is a great organiser and manager - a credit to the expensive estate.

I drove back down to Warkworth - sunny day not much traffic at all - and relax for the last two nights at the finest largest newest luxury lodge complex (18 separate villas) north of Auckland - Kourawhero Country Lodge. A-mazing.

It is a brilliant spot. They have a priceless walk down a black flat sandstone stream among bush totara rimu, taraire, and every other native tree, nikau, wood pigeons tui - the Auckland corporate can't get enough of it. My guide Gordon Mann makes the journey and you begin to slow down and appreciate what New Zealand is all about. Michael Shah is the consummate general manager. These people will do very well.

I have lunch one day at Ascension winery with Sharley and Laly Haddon, the people who run the Pakiri Horses. They have the only horse trek in the world from the ocean on the east coast across to the harbour on the west coast. Sharley loves her horses. Laly is one of great totaras of Northland Maoridom. He was the finest loose  forward  ever not to wear the All Black No.8 jersey.

Then the last day back to drop off my old Sunny - which has got me safely over rough roads, put holes, past giant trucks. Thanks Jucy.

- Kip Brook, Word of Mouth Media NZ